Monday, August 31, 2009
Days 32-40: Yosemite NP, Kings Canyon/Sequoia Nat'l Parks, Death Valley NP, Las Vegas, NV, Zion NP, North Rim of Grand Canyon NP, and Bryce Canyon NP
Monday morning came bright and early as we woke up at 4:30 AM. We had a date with Half Dome. For those that don’t know, Half Dome is a granite mountain in Yosemite. It is one of the most photographed things in Yosemite. Its elevation is 8,842 feet. The hike is 14-16 miles round trip, depending on which route you take, and it gains 4,800 feet in elevation.
We started our hike right at dawn. We decided to go up Mist Trail, which was the shortest way up, but also the steepest. There were two very pretty waterfalls along the way, Vernal and Nevada Falls. We reached the base of Half Dome, and we wondered what we got ourselves into. There standing before us was a Sub-dome, which we had to climb before we even reached the bottom of the peak of Half Dome. The climb up the Sub-dome included granite steps with a sheer drop-off beside you. At this point, our legs were starting to get tired, but we were so close to getting to the top. About ¾ of the way up the Sub-dome, the stairs disappeared, and we had to rock scramble up slabs of granite to reach the saddle between the Sub-dome and the beginning of the actual Half Dome.
Once we were on the saddle, we only had about 500 feet left until we reached the peak of Half Dome. Unfortunately, the final ascent is probably one of the most terrifying events we have experienced so far. The only thing separating us and the peak was the 45+ degree incline that was one solid sheet of granite. It is so steep that there is a line of cables for climbers to use as they ascend to the top. This isn’t like rock climbing; you don’t get to clip yourself onto the cable.
Climbing up involved a lot of upper body strength as we had to pull ourselves up the cables. Thanks to our Sunday School class in Wichita, we had gardening gloves that served as our lifesavers to grip the cables. (Yes, going into it, we knew about the cables.) About a 1/3 of the way up, Marissa lost her footing for a split second, and she began to question our sanity. The same cables were used for people to climb up the dome as well as descend it. So, at that point, it was almost easier to keep ascending rather than quit and turn around. However, she was basically hyperventilating the rest of the way up due to the steepness and risk of life involved. Jeremy reassured her, and we kept going up…one foot in front of the other. Finally, after a few heart stopping moments, we reached the top! The view from the peak was breathtaking.
After 30 minutes of resting and soaking in the scenery, it was time to descend. To our amazement, the descent was easier. We basically had to just get a good grip on the cable and hold on tight as we walked down (or slide down as Jeremy did a few times). After 10.5 hours, we were back at the car and ready for a shower and some good eats.
Tuesday we drove across the park on Tioga Road to Tuolumne Meadows, and then back to Yosemite Valley. We checked out the Ansel Adams gallery and the Ahwahnee Hotel. After that we drove to the southern part of the park to Wawona Hotel, where we had reservations for the night. We also drove about 6 miles further south to the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. These trees aren’t as tall as the Redwoods, but they definitely have wider trunks.
Wednesday morning we partook of the Wawona Hotel’s “complimentary” breakfast buffet. It was a nice surprise that we didn’t expect. Then we headed south to King’s Canyon National Park. Our first attraction in the park was Grant’s Grove which is where General Grant, one of the world’s widest trees resides. Next, we headed south to the adjoining Sequoia National Park. There we made our way to the Lodgepole Campground to set up our tent. Then we took the shuttle down to the General Sherman tree, the world’s largest tree by volume (interesting to note that it is neither the tallest nor the widest, however).
Thursday morning we saw a black bear waddle across the road on our way to Moro Rock. It was one of our highlights of the trip so far. It didn’t seem at all affected by our car’s presence. We then climbed up some 400+ stairs to the top of the scenic Moro Rock. Afterwards, we departed for Death Valley National Park.
It was a long drive, but it was surprisingly beautiful. The drive was very mountainous, but even the desert area was gorgeous. We saw some orchards that we in the midst of desert. The highest temperature on our car’s thermometer was 117 degrees and that was around 5 pm. We stayed at a hotel which actually had a TV (that’s unheard of at national parks).
Friday morning, we woke up and drove to Badwater Basin, which is the lowest point in the western hemisphere. It was an ancient lake. It’s now a dry salt bed. By 9 AM that morning, the temperature was already 101 degrees.
We headed out of Death Valley and into Las Vegas. Despite the shady dealings going on along the Strip, there was actually beauty to be found with the casino buildings and lights. Our motel had lions in the lobby that you could watch for free. We also went to the Venetian and saw the canals and gondolas. That night, we went to one of six Cirque du Soleil shows going on in Las Vegas. This was an awesome show full of acrobatic stunts, choreography, and special effects. After the show, which was about 8:30 PM, we headed over to Mandalay Bay to eat at their buffet. (We figured we had to try one since Vegas is known for its buffets.) We journeyed up the Strip to the Bellagio, and we watched the FREE water/light show that is often depicted in movies. It was late to bed that night, even though Jeremy’s parents were to arrive the following morning.
After meeting Jeremy’s parents at a McDonald’s near the Strip, we headed for the Hoover Dam. We had a dam tour, which included the dam power plant. The dam guide was very informative. Then, it was on to Zion National Park. We didn’t do much that evening as everyone was very tired. So, we just stayed at a motel at the entrance to Zion. We did have some Bumbleberry pie for dessert, which was pretty tasty.
We woke up early on Sunday, and headed into Zion to catch the free shuttle up the canyon. We all donned our water shoes and walked a ways up the Virgin River into a part of the park called The Narrows. It is only accessible via hiking through the river. This was extremely fun, but the water was only in the 60s. The rocks were very slippery and hard to see through the water. The water only came up to the mid-thigh region before we turned around. (We did see people further up stream with water up to their stomachs.)
After The Narrows, we drove a few hours south to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. We went to the afternoon ranger talk about California condors. The condors were practically extinct in 1985 with only 9 birds left in the wild. These birds were eventually all captured, and they were bred in captivity. There are now approximately 385 condors in the wild. (We saw 2-3 condors in Zion National Park.) Around dusk that evening, another ranger brought out a high-power telescope and showed people the moon and Jupiter. Afterwards, there was another ranger talk about various deaths in the canyon. As morbid as this sounds, it was a very interesting talk.
We went on a short hike on Monday morning along the rim of the canyon. Following this, Jeremy’s parents went back to Las Vegas, while we went up to Bryce Canyon. We plan on exploring some of Utah’s canyonlands the next few days. Both of us were commenting that at the beginning of the trip, we weren’t expecting much from Utah due to the desert conditions. However, it has been one of the most beautiful aspects of our trip.
(We'll post pictures at a later date as we are receiving very slow Wi-Fi service at the moment.)
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Days 25-31: Oregon Coast, Redwoods Forest, Point Reyes National Seashore, San Francisco, CA, and Sacramento, CA
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Days 16-24: Seattle, WA, Orcas Island, WA, Olympic National Park, Mt. Rainier National Park, and Portland, OR
Saturday morning, we woke up and walked to Top Pot donuts, which is a Seattle tradition. After donuts, we had a few hours to kill before we went to pick up Marissa’s parents from the airport. Therefore, we went to Point Defiance Zoo. Lucky for us, we already had a membership to our local zoo, and we were able to get into this zoo for free. We like free! It was a pretty neat zoo.
We picked up Marissa’s parents Saturday evening from the airport and went directly to the Space Needle. We ate in the restaurant on top of the needle. It had an awesome 360 degree view of the city and surrounding area, and it had excellent food. The restaurant rotates in a complete circle every 44 minutes. We highly recommend this to anyone who’s going to be in the area.
On Sunday morning, we went back to Pike Place Market and walked around. We then went to the Starbucks where several pictures were taken. After this outing, we loaded up Captain and headed for the ferry to Orcas Island.
Wednesday morning we went for a short hike through the rainforest before departing to Mt. Rainier. The forest lived up to its name, as it rained on us the whole time we were there. We were disappointed by all of the logging which started immediately after the boundary of the national park and forest. I guess that only reinforces the importance of protecting national parks and forests. Our route to Mt. Rainier went through Olympia, the capitol of Washington. There was dense fog most of the way to Mt. Rainier where we stayed at a park inn near the mountain. Due to the fog, we never got a glimpse of the mountain. In fact, we have not seen the mountain yet (you can see it even from Seattle on clear days).
Thursday we traveled south to Mount St. Helen’s. We drove to the east side of the volcano where we viewed the damage from the 1980 explosion. There has been quite a bit of re-growth, but you can definitely tell the extent of the damage. Marissa’s mom was a very good sport on the ride up the mountain due to the fact that she is not so keen on heights. She was very thankful when we pulled into Portland later that day. We ate at a Lebanese restaurant which surprisingly, everyone seemed to enjoy.
Friday we checked out Voodoo Doughnut’s downtown location which was only a block from our hotel. It has a very eclectic mix of doughnuts, including body part doughnuts and maple and bacon doughnuts to name a few. Then we went to Portland’s Japanese Garden. Supposedly, it is one of the best in the US. We took Marissa’s parents to the airport around noon. Then we set off to see the Columbia River Gorge and Multnomah Falls. It is the second highest year-round waterfall in the US. We hiked up to the top of the falls which was a pretty steep hike. It was worth the effort to see the view at the top. Next up was the Oregon Zoo in Portland. Their exhibit featuring animals of the Northwest was impressive. The bald eagles were only caged in the exhibit by the doors that the patrons entered into. There wasn’t any barbed wire between them and us which was pretty cool. Also, the zoo had a 40th anniversary for Woodstock concert. We think that group/singer was Topaz?? The line for the concert was full of 60-something-year olds and had hundreds-to-thousands of eager ex-hippies waiting to relive Woodstock. Friday night was laundry night.
After a delectable breakfast, we headed to Oregon City, OR, the oldest incorporated town west of the Rockies. It is home of the only municipal elevator in the US. It is also the end of the Oregon Trail. We ventured to the Oregon Trail Center, but were rather disappointed as it didn’t match up to the previous trail centers we had been to previously. We then headed to a National Park-sponsored historical house. The house was the home of Dr. McLoughlin, who was the city founder. It was a pretty good tour of the house, especially because it was free!
Once we completed the tour, we met up with one of Jeremy’s old college roommates, Brent, and his girlfriend, Rebecca. We had a tasty supper and chat, then we headed down the road toward the coast. However, as we were driving, we started calling hotels along the way, and they were all sold out. Therefore, we diverted to Salem, OR, the capital city, where we are once again doing laundry because we found out that some of our sleeping bags were damp from being stored in coolers which were on the back of our car.
Tomorrow, we head back to the Oregon coast, and we plan to camp on the beach.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Day 15: Leavenworth, WA
After the brief stop in Cashmere, we headed for Leavenworth, WA, which is mentioned in the book "1,000 Places to See Before You Die." The town is Bavarian themed. The downtown area is decked out with Bavarian buildings and murals. They have many German restaurants and shops. It may seem like this is a cheesy concept, but the town pulls it off very well. We highly recommend anyone who wants to go to Germany, but is afraid of the language barrier, to go here instead.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Days 13-14: Coeur d'Alene, ID and Spokane, WA
Days 10-12: Glacier National Park
Friday, July 31, 2009
Day 9: Great Falls, MT
From the trail center, we walked along the Missouri River path to the shortest river in the world, the Roe River. The river measures 201 feet in length. It just so happens to flow into the longest river in the US, the Missouri River, which spans 2,540 miles. This is actually 200 miles longer than the Mississippi River. The Roe River was certified the shortest river in the world by the Guinness Book this year. It starts from Giant Springs, which is one of the largest freshwater springs in the world. Below is a picture of the springs with the 1st half of the Roe River flowing from it.
Other than laundry, that’s our day in a nutshell. Tomorrow we’re off to the Grizzly Festival in Dupuyer, MT and Glacier National Park. Therefore, the next post may be delayed a few days because we’ve come to find out that most National Parks lack modern conveniences, which is the whole point of going there in the first place.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Days 7 and 8: Yellowstone National Park
Our first impression of the area made us feel as if we were in pre-historic times, and a dinosaur was about to come around the corner. Our first stop was at Old Faithful. We ate breakfast at the Old Faithful Inn. We also watched Old Faithful erupt. After the eruption, we drove the lower loop of Yellowstone. Our favorite section was the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which had breathtaking views, similar to its cousin in Arizona.
One of our last stops of the day was at the Mud Volcano. As with all the other attractions in Yellowstone, there was a huge crowd. Luckily, we found a parking spot and started walking on the sidewalk which looped through the mud volcanoes. The walk was about 3/4 mile long on a heavily-traveled, paved path. As we were walking along, we noticed bison footprints and excrement close to the path and around the volcanoes. As we were coming to the last leg of the loop, we saw a girl running down the path with her camera. We were headed that way anyway, so we continued walking down the path to where the girl had ran. As we rounded a hill, we were greeted by the sight of 4 bison approaching us from below. If we could've turned around without them noticing us, we would've. However, it was too late. We decided to slowly walk another 15 feet to where a group of 4 guys were standing on the path. At this point, the bison were about 20 feet away from us. We also realized that the animals' path was only about 5-10 feet from our paved route. We had just watched a movie at the Visitor Center about an attack by a bison on a little girl. It was amazing how fast the bison ran and how far it flung the girl. This was going through our heads the whole time. We stood as still as possible and avoided eye contact. (Of course, Jeremy had to take the camera from Marissa and start taking pictures as the bison passed.) The pictures below show the bison coming up from near the road, and one of the bison as it passed us. These pictures are NOT zoomed in! After a few tense moments, the bison finally passed, and the 6 of us made our way to safety. One of the guys we were walking with told us that someone had been killed 2 weeks ago when a bison gored him. It happens to be mating season, and they are especially hostile right now. At the end of the paved loop, we saw a warning sign mentioning the bison and their propensity to gore people at 30 mph! We wish they would've had a sign at the beginning of the loop.
After getting our heart rates up, we decided to check into the Lake Lodge Cabins. This was on Yellowstone Lake. (Today's nature lesson: Yellowstone Lake is the largest high altitude lake in the US.)
Today, we spent about 10 hours on the road. Most of this was scenic driving. Our first stop was Mammoth Hot Springs. On the way there, we saw a black bear foraging in the woods. We tried to get a good picture, but there were too many trees in the way, and we weren't about to get out of the car after yesterday's event with the bison. Also along the way, we saw a wolf walking along a creek bed. Below is a picture of him (or her).
After Mammoth Hot Springs, we headed out of Yellowstone through the northeast entrance near Cooke City, MT. We decided to make a pit stop here because there would be no towns for about 3 hours afterward. The only restroom options available were port-a-potties (PP). We stopped at a gas station, and Marissa asked to use their restroom. They gave her a key to the locked PP. She went in, lifted the lid, and quickly came out gagging. It was completely full of excrement and the visual was not pretty. So, we walked across the street to some other PP's. This time Jeremy went in first. Jeremy had no problem using the urinal. He said, "It isn't bad in there." So, trusting him, Marissa went in and lifted this lid, and quickly came out not only because it was full but also there wasn't any TP. She went to the other 2 PP's. Same story.. gagging each time. Someone needs to actually empty those things occasionally! Normally, they aren't so bad.
After Cooke City, we drove the Beartooth Scenic Highway. This was a very pretty drive. There were a few waterfalls, lots of switchbacks, and gorgeous views of mountains in the distance. There was also a Forest Service Fire Tower that we walked up in order to get a better view of the area.
Coming off of Beartooth Highway, we made our way to I-90 in Montana. We drove through Livingston, MT, which was where the movie "A River Runs Through It" was filmed. Tonight, we're staying in Bozeman, MT. They happen to be having "Music on Main" festival, so we partook of that after supper.
Next up: Great Falls, MT (and laundry day!)
Days 4-6: Jackson, WY and Grand Teton National Park
We then went back to Jackson, WY and ate lunch at The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. It was a historical building and seemed popular, but we don’t know the story on it. That afternoon we set up our tent and explored the Jenny Lake area. We were just going to walk down to the lake to take a peek at the scenery but ended up walking 7 miles around the lake. After working up an appetite, we splurged on some pizza. On the way to pizza, we saw a moose and its calf. That was pretty exciting!
We were planning on doing a 20 mile hike on Monday and Tuesday in the backcountry. The ranger told us that there was still snow on our route. We tried to fit all of our warm gear in our backpacks, but we couldn’t, so we abandoned that idea. Instead, we back to Jackson, WY for a little while. We also got to take showers which are now a luxury. It was very rainy and cold so we spent most of the day in our tent listening to rain and hail. It was very relaxing. During a break in the storm, we boiled water and ate some Ramen noodles for dinner.
On Tuesday, we woke up early and broke camp. Then we rode a ferry boat across Jenny Lake to the trailhead. We hiked 9 miles in the mountains past several waterfalls. We are so thankful that we went early in the day before the crowds came out. We stayed in Colter Bay Cabins and took a scenic boat cruise on Lake Jackson in the Park. We saw bald eagles on our voyage, which was very exciting.
We’re off to Yellowstone next!
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Day 3: Casper, WY to Jackson Hole, WY (Mormon-Style)
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Days 1 and 2: The Adventure Begins (Cheyenne and Casper, WY)
We woke up on the 23rd and drove to Cheyenne, WY. We explored the town, but we were mostly there to check out Cheyenne Frontier Days. This year was the 113th year for event, and last night the festivities included Taylor Swift and Kellie Pickler in concert. We enjoyed the concert with 20,000+ others. Even Jeremy, who is not a Country music fan, liked the concert.
Prior to the concert, we decided to check into our "campground." We pulled up to a ranch in the country in which the owners rented out slots under dwarf pine trees. These were the shaded tent sites. Needless to say, most of the people staying there went to the concert, and they all came back very late, very loud, and mostly drunk. Unfortunately, we did not get much sleep. (BTW: Did you know that roosters not only crow when the sun rises, but they also crow throughout the night? We learned this first-hand last night as the people noise quieted, and the animal noise increased.)
This morning, we woke up at first sunlight and packed our tent up. We ate breakfast at Little America Truck Stop and Resort. (We had seen this a few weeks prior on The Travel Channel.) After breakfast, we took off for Casper, WY. On the way, we passed through the metropolis of Buford, WY, the smallest town in the US with a population of 1.
We drove through Laramie, WY before heading north to Casper. The road between the two towns was very desolate. We saw several pronghorn antelope before later hearing that there are actually more antelope in Wyoming than there are humans.
We went to the National Heritage Trail Museum in Casper. The Oregon, California, Mormon, and Pony Express Trails all intersected in the Casper area.
Tonight (the 24th) we are staying at a KOA near Casper. We are hoping for a good night's sleep to make up for last night. We're off to Jackson Hole, WY tomorrow.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Prologue: Adventure Before THE Adventure
I (Jeremy) am writing this sitting at a desk in a motel in Wichita. The past two weeks have been a crazy smorgasbord of stress, anxiety, and excitement. After finishing residency at the end of June, we started focusing on our transition to our next stage in life. We moved out of our apartment on July 4th. However, because today (July 16) is Marissa's last day of work, we have been sleeping on an air mattress in an empty apartment.
Prior to moving out of our apartment, we decided to take most of our breakable items to our new house. Therefore, on the Monday before our big move, we loaded Tinkerbell, our Ford Explorer, and Marissa headed west. When Marissa was about 30-45 minutes west of Wichita, Tink's check engine light came on, and the car started shaking violently. Luckily, she was within 6 miles of Cheney, KS, where there happened to be a Ford dealership. So, she drove Tink at a slow pace to the dealership to find out what was going on. After a diagnostic test was done, Tink was officially pronounced dead. Not only did we have our move to worry about, but we now had to worry about finding a replacement vehicle as Tink was going to be our ride for our big adventure to the western US.
We returned to our empty apartment after we moved over the 4th of July weekend. Marissa had to work on Monday, so I began the process of calling around for the best deal on a new vehicle. We had an idea in mind as to what we wanted. I made calls to most Honda dealers in Kansas and in northern Oklahoma. Surprisingly, the best deal we found was in Bartlesville, OK. So, on Tuesday, we made a road trip to Bartlesville to buy a Honda Pilot. Because he is a Pilot, we affectionately named him Captain. (Our cars started having names about 3 years ago when the first "Transformers" movie came out. It's only appropriate to give a proper name to something that keeps you protected, right?) Whew! All of our troubles were solved. Or were they just beginning?
The next night, we decided to test out the new speakers of Cap by going to the drive-in movie. This would be the evening of July 8. As most Wichitians know, this was the night of the huge, surprise hail storm that blew through the city. The drive-in manager reported that a severe storm was heading our way, so we jetted out of the parking lot, hoping to beat the storm. We did not. We made it to I-135 and Pawnee before the big hail started. We pulled into a residential neighborhood that had lots of large trees, hoping they would help block some of the hail. Here's the radar signature from that storm:
The whites and purples in the image are the largest hail. This measured baseball to softball size. Luckily, we were "only" in the red area. Therefore, our hail was only about golf ball to tennis ball size. Needless to say, our new vehicle now looks like a golf ball on wheels. I guess it could be worse. None of our windows were broken, and we were safe.
Our pre-adventure doesn't stop there. We decided to take Cap our for a spin since he had been garaged for a few days after the storm. As we were were driving down the main road in Andover, a police man came up behind us and turned on its emergency lights. I quickly pulled Cap over, wondering what was going on. Surely one of the tail lights wasn't busted from the storm. I definitely wasn't speeding. The cop came up to the window and proceeded to tell me that our temporary license plate had expired. "What!?" I exclaimed. I told him we bought it 3 days ago in Bartlesville. He looked at the tag again, and he apologized for pulling me over. Apparently, in Oklahoma, they print the day that the vehicle is purchased on their temporary tags. In Kansas, they write down the day the tags expire.
And that leads us to now. On top of all these stressful and exciting events, we have experienced many Wichita "lasts." We said good-bye to our Sunday School class and our church on Sunday, we ate at our favorite Mexican food restaurant in Wichita for the last time, I ran my 3-mile route and my 4-mile routes for the last time, and I saw one last movie at the Warren before heading west for good. Needless to say, we will come back for the occasional weekend, but it won't be the same as living here for the past three years.
The next week looks to be busy as we prepare for our 6-week road trip to the American West. We hope you continue to follow us as we begin our journey and have the experience of a lifetime.